Refrain from throwing your bicycle in public. It shows poor upbringing.
~Jacquie Phelan
When I was 21 I graduated from college with my useless Psychology degree and went to Italy to be an au pair. It was my intention to learn the language of my grandparents, who had not taught it to my parents because they wanted them to be American, but also to avoid the overwhelming responsibility of finding a real job for as long as possible.
I lived in Florence with a wealthy shipping tycoon, his architect wife, and their six-year-old boy, Andrea. They also had a dog named Stupid, and a Philippine maid/cook. Their living room coffee table was a gigantic model of a Marlboro cigarette box, and it opened to reveal a fully-stocked bar. That's really all you need to know about them. I could write a book about my experiences with that family, but for the purpose of this blog entry I'm going to stick to the set of circumstances that led to what I have come to think of as the "Down on the Ground" episode.
Every summer since Andrea was born his parents had sent him and his current au pair to Forte dei Marmi for a month of sun and sea air. Andrea and his lucky au pair stayed at the Pensione America, which aristocratic Florentines booked years in advance, and spent their days at the private, exclusive beach across the street. Everything from ice cream cones to beach towels was signed to a running tab, and at the end of the month Andrea's parents would show up and pay the astronomical bill. I had endured several months of a less-than-pleasurable experience with this family, and Forte dei Marmi was my reward. I was going to the beach, goddammit.
Forte dei Marmi is the jewel of of the Tuscan Riviera, and I intended it to be the jewel of my Italian experience. I could lounge, bathe, stroll, dine, disco and (window) shop with the best of them. I spent one month's wage on a pair of Georgio Armani sunglasses while I was there, and have mourned their disappearance for the past 19 years (a roommate's ferret stole them).
Forte dei Marmi has a "quiet ordinance," a rule that requests silence from lunchtime through the afternoon siesta. Silence, of course, is relative, and although the local businesses would shut down and the majority of the tourists went back to their rooms and napped behind those ubiquitous, dark green, Italian shutters, there was still some life to be found.
It had become my habit to put Andrea down for a nap, leave him under the supervision of a Swiss au pair named Irmi, then jump on my bike and pedal from my pensione to the main street a few blocks away. I would gaze adoringly at the designer goods on display in the shop windows, mail a few postcards, and buy a gelato.
On this particular day I must have been short on time, because I decided it would be prudent to eat my gelato and ride the bike back at the same time. Let me be clear: I am The Most Uncoordinated Person you will ever meet. Ever. Some people can ride a bike with no hands; I cannot. I can barely ride a bike with two hands. So, there I was, riding along, ice cream cone in one hand, handle bar in the other.
I would love to know what happened next, but really, I have no idea. All of a sudden I was in the middle of the road, bicycle on top of me, gelato everywhere. A woman witnessed this from behind her walled garden and came out to see if I was OK. She guided me over to the footpath, sat me down, inspected my wounds and asked me what happened.
It has often been noted that one's ability to speak a foreign language is enhanced by alcohol. The opposite is true when one is shocked, in pain, or smeared with gelato. Whatever linguistic skills I had at that point quickly vanished, and I found myself babbling like a toddler. The rough translation goes something like this: "I don't know! I'm good, I'm on bike, I go, all is well, then BAM! I'M DOWN! I'M DOWN! I'M DOWN ON THE GROUND!"
The woman patted my hand patronizingly and asked if I could make it back to wherever I was going. I wiped my hands on my shorts, got to my feet, and pushed the bike back to the pensione. I dropped the bike on the front lawn and walked inside to the front desk where one of the old women who ran the place was shuffling papers and peering at me from behind her bifocals.
"Dio mio!" she said, "Che successo?"
What happened? And there I was again, dumbstruck, tongue-tied, trying to explain the situation. What I wanted to say was, "Well, you see, I was trying to enjoy a delicious gelato while riding my bicycle, but being inept at most things athletic, and having no coordination or balance whatsoever, I found myself tumbling from the bike and landing rather unceremoniously on the pavement, which is how I incurred these vicious injuries to my knees and hands."
If I couldn't express the seriousness of the matter through words, I could express them through volume, so I repeated my childish rant rather loudly. "I am on bike, I go, all is well, then BAM! I'M DOWN! I'M DOWN! I'M DOWN ON THE GROUND!"
The woman shook her head with disdain and said, "Che casino!" ("What a mess!). I got the distinct impression that she wasn't referring to the accident, or my injuries, but to me, this dim-witted American buffoon who couldn't manage a bicicletta and a gelato at the same time.
I decided to appeal to Andrea, my six-year-old expert in scabs and bruises. When he awoke from his nap I dramatically showed him my many bandages and band-aids and explained that I fell off the bike.
"Were you going fast?" he asked, eyes wide.
"Well, no, not really fast at all."
"Did you hit a pothole, or a rock?" he asked, eyes narrowing.
"Um, no. I didn't hit anything."
"You were... blinded by the sun?" he asked, eyes suspicious.
"No, it was... it wasn't sunny."
"What happened to you?"
"Ice cream, Andrea! I was eating ice cream, and then... BAM! I'M DOWN! I'M DOWN! I'M DOWN ON THE GROUND!"
Andrea looked away, shook his head, and muttered, "Che disastro."
Indeed.
Andrea, arms up in the sea, Forte dei Marmi, 1989.
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